Friday, March 22, 2013

THE DIOR REVIVAL

Dior Couture Fall 2010

Gone are the days of Rene Gruau’s iconic illustrations painted, scribbled and dramatised into remarkable couture and fantastical gardens in Alice in Wonderland grandeur translated into enormous theatrical clouds of fabric petals blossoming under the glass dome of Le Grand Palais. Every show had been a small glimpse into the expansive fantastical imagination of John Galliano, where models were temporarily transformed into creatures in a surreal dream, sashaying in flowing, billowing handmade creations.

Dior Couture Fall 2010

With Raf Simons as the new Creative Director at the House of Christian Dior a new refined subtly has so evidently replaced the theatrical extravagance that was unparalleled by other couturiers during Galliano’s reign. Now, the shapes have become relaxed, delicate and slender to focus on form and detail: the collections are less creatively overwhelming and instead cleaner and revitalised.  The Dior vision is no longer explicitly stated; the outlook is now simple, quiet and calm.

Dior Couture Spring 2012

Unlike Galliano who allowed us to escape reality through dreams in wild and wonderful costumes, Simons’ dreams are based in real life. Each look may be simplified, but they are certainly more wearable – and sellable - off the runway. The embroidery is as intricate however understated, and while the colours shine as bright as before there is more of a feeling of practicality and relativity in each piece.

Dior Couture Spring 2012

Can Simons ever replicate the creative genius of Galliano? Only time will tell. This new world of possibilities is just opening.

2 comments:

  1. I loved so much John Galliano's at Dior era. His clothes were theatral dresses, but Couture is also research. Of course Raf Simons is more wearable but I like dreams!

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    1. Yes definitely! Galliano's designs may have been escapism and pure fantasy but it's the type of dreaming we love (and miss)!

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